Tampa Bay Home Inspector Blog

Frontline Inspections, LLC – Serving Pasco, Pinellas, Hillsborough, and Hernando Counties in Tampa Bay, Florida (727) 460-2655

More Problems with Stucco

April 26th, 2010 by admin

I’m driving to work one morning last week and see this on a home in my neighborhood so I had to stop and take a picture.

Stucco Damage

Like I find during the course of many home inspections, there were cracks visible on most of the second story walls of this home.  The water had penetrated the cracks, made contact with the metal lath and the rust began.  Peices of stucco were laying on the ground, I measured a chunk only to find out that the thickness was just over half of what it should have been.

Once again, if you have a home with a stucco finish, particularly if the stucco is over wood framing, be sure to keep any cracks sealed and keep the home painted with high quality paint to prevent moisture intrusion.  Most homes have stucco defects…it will just be a matter of time and lack of maintainence before the defects rear their ugly head.

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Problems with stucco

April 21st, 2010 by admin

I got a call last month from a woman in panic mode thinking that she has a sinkhole.  After explaining that I don’t do

Stucco damage - Home Inspection Pictures

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sinkhole investigations and after hearing more about the home, I told her that I would come and take a look…maybe just to give her some guidance on who could best help her.

The home was built in 2005 and in my opinion, a sinkhole is not the problem.  It turns out that the builder did a very poor job installing the stucco finish over the 2nd story framed walls of the home.  In addition, the stucco cracks had not been sealed or painted.  Water has worked its way into the stucco, caused the metal lath to rust/expand and the stucco finish is now falling off of this 5 year old home.

Please be sure to keep your stucco cracks sealed and keep good quality paint on your stucco homes for protection.

Stucco Problems

5 year old home with stucco problems

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Mold Prevention/Control

April 15th, 2010 by admin

Moisture and Mold Prevention and Control Tips

  • Moisture control is the key to mold control, so when water leaks or spills occur indoors – ACT QUICKLY.  If wet or damp materials or areas are dried 24-48 hours after a leak or spill happens, in most cases mold will not grow. Read the rest of this entry »

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Mold Clean-up Pt. II

April 14th, 2010 by admin

What to Wear When Cleaning Moldy Areas

Avoid breathing in mold or mold spores.  In order to limit your exposure to airborne mold, you may want to wear an N-95 respirator, available at many hardware stores and from  companies that advertise on the Internet. (They cost about $12 to $25.)  Some N-95 respirators resemble a paper dust mask with a Read the rest of this entry »

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Mold Clean-up Pt. I

April 12th, 2010 by admin

How do I get rid of mold?

It is impossible to get rid of all mold and mold spores indoors, some mold spores will be found floating through the air and in house dust. The mold spores will not grow if moisture is not present.  Indoor mold growth can and should be prevented or controlled by controlling moisture indoors. If there is mold growth in your home, you must clean up the mold and fix the water problem. If you clean up the mold, but don’t fix the water problem, then, most likely, the mold problem will come back. Read the rest of this entry »

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Wood Decay

April 2nd, 2010 by admin

Wood Decay found during Frontline Home Inspection

Wood decay, also known as wood rot, is the decomposition of wood as the result of actions by certain species of fungi.

Facts about wood decay and decay fungi:

According to Ohio State University, replacement materials needed to repair damage caused by decay account for nearly 10% of U.S. annual wood production.

Carpenter ants, termites and other wood-destroying insects do not cause wood decay. These insects are, however, attracted to wood that has been softened by decay.

Decay fungi are active in temperatures between 77 to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, and need water, oxygen and a food source to survive.

Fungi that cause wood decay are called saprophytic, a term also applied to other organisms that consume decayed material. Many species of fungi, along with saprophytic beetles, worms, protists and bacteria are essential components of the decomposition and nutrient cycles.

How does wood decay happen?

Fungi reproduce by manufacturing single-celled spores, similar to microscopic seeds. Spores are tough; they’re able to resist extreme conditions of temperature and humidity and, under adverse conditions, they may go dormant for long periods. Spread primarily by air currents, they collect on horizontal surfaces. Decay fungi feed on the cellulose and lignin of which wood cell walls are composed. Their hyphae, which are threadlike tubes that penetrate the wood, secrete enzymes which dissolve at least part of the wood cell being fed upon, changing it into a form which can then be absorbed as food. Spores require a moisture content higher than the Fiber Saturation Point (FSP) of the wood species upon which they rest, typically between 27% and 30%. Once sufficient water and favorable temperatures are available, spores germinate and develop by extending a hyphal tube. As more spores germinate, fungi multiply to form a colony. Under the right conditions, colonies can expand quickly.

Common types of wood decay:

brown rot: This type of decay causes the wood to break down into brown cubes that split against the grain. Advanced stages of brown decay result in dry, powdery wood that is unable to support much weight, and crumbles easily.

white rot: This type of decay appears whitish, stringy and mushy, and tends to be more common in hardwoods.

dry rot: A misnomer, this term has been used to describe decayed wood that has since dried and ceased decaying. Some people may erroneously assume that the wood is still in the process of decay. Moisture is required for wood decay to occur, so no literal “dry rot” exists.

Decay Prevention

If the decay hazard is high, select the heartwood of decay-resistant species, or use wood properly treated with a good preservative.

Proper grading can prevent water from seeping under or into the foundation.

Effective roof overhangs, gutters and downspouts should be installed.

Untreated wood should not be placed within 18 inches of the ground.

Adequate cross-ventilation in crawlspaces will help eliminate dead air pockets, which contribute to wood decay.

A vapor barrier can be installed on the soil surface to help limit evaporation and return moisture to the soil, rather than allowing it to condense on the floor and above joists. Plastic sheets can cover the soil to act as satisfactory barriers.

Dehumidifiers and bathroom and kitchen fans will reduce indoor water vapor, and potentially dry wood enough to prevent decay.

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